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the
exhibition
of color
appendix b
marquise brilliant cut diamond
with rustic inclusions
hexagonal shield portrait cut
diamond with trapiche pattern
modern antique cushion brilliant
diamond with twinning wisps
BEHOLD... COLOR!
the museum of misfit inclusions: a glossary of the weird and wonderful
A big part of what makes a Misfit a Misfit is color!
Color in gemstones has a wide range of influences: imperfections in genetic makeup, exposure to radiation, inclusions or the presence of trace elements. In diamonds, we categorize color by the stone’s general appearance, including salt and pepper, trapiche and rustic diamonds, extending all the way to the rarest “Fancy Colors,” the diamonds that are the most rich in color and are some of the rarest of all the Misfits. Similarly, sapphires come in every color imaginable, usually because of trace elements, and may feature particular optical phenomena based on their inclusions. (Browse our Museum of Misfit Inclusions for more on inclusions.)
Below is the full glossary of the many colors you can find in diamonds and sapphires.
Diamonds
trace elements and/or imperfections at the atomic level are responsible for color in diamonds. click on the color header to reveal its specific cause.
red
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
orange
Cause of color = the presence of Nitrogen and/or Nitrogen C-centers, where Nitrogen has replaced Carbon in the gemstone's atomic structure.
Note: Rustic Diamonds can have a red/orange appearance due to iron-rich inclusions.
yellow
Cause of color = the presence of Nitrogen.
Note: Diamonds that are recognized as white/colorless can display yellow and are graded on a scale of D (colorless) to Z (light yellow). A diamond beyond Z is considered 'Fancy Yellow.'
green
Cause of color = radiation during the grown process.
blue
Cause of color = the presence of Boron.
violet
Cause of color = the presence of Hydrogen replacing Carbon in the crystal lattice.
purple
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
pink
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
fancy white
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
black
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
fancy grey
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
champagne
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
salt & pepper
Cause of color = imperfections in the crystal lattice.
Note: Because Red Diamonds are so rare, it is still relatively unknown what exactly causes this color.
rust/iron
“Rust” or “Rustic” are terms used to describe a diamond with rust-colored inclusions, typically caused by the presence of iron.
salt + pepper
A term used to describe diamonds with many inclusions, such as feathers, clouds, or other minerals, with a black and white (or colorless) appearance like salt and pepper. These diamonds are sometimes referred to as ‘Galaxy,’ ‘Celestial,’ or ‘Grey’ diamonds, but we exclusively use the term “Salt and Pepper.”
trapiche
A star-like pattern that occurs in diamonds when dark inclusions (usually hydrogen clouds) align with the crystal axis; most well-know for occurring in emeralds, trapiche patterns in diamonds are quite rare.
trigon
An indented triangle that appears naturally on the surface of a diamond crystal during the growth process; trigons can appear solitary or in groups, sometimes stacking within larger trigons.
twinning wisp
A wispy line of microscopic inclusions, either pinpoints or clouds, inside a diamond caused by irregular crystal growth.
Sapphires
specific trace elements are responsible for color in sapphires. click on the color header to reveal what element(s) cause that color.
red
Cause of color = Chromium.
orange
Cause of color = Iron + Chromium or Iron + Vanadium.
yellow
Cause of color = Iron (and sometimes color centers).
green
Cause of color = Iron.
teal
Cause of color = Iron + Titanium.
blue
Cause of color = Titanium + Iron.
violet
Cause of color = Vanadium.
purple
Cause of color = Chromium + Vanadium + (sometimes) Iron.
pink
Cause of color = Chromium.
white (colorless)
Cause of color = free of trace elements or impurities.
grey
Cause of color = Chromium.
padparadscha
Cause of color = Chromium + Iron.
parti-color
Cause of color = Chromium + Vanadium + (sometimes) Iron.
color change
Cause of color = Chromium.
opalescence
Cause of color = a high concentration of rutile silk; also the cause of asterism when silk is aligned on the crystal axis.
Why
COLOR
MatterS
Inclusions are important in diamonds and sapphires for multiple reasons. On top of being one of the determining factors in a gemstone’s “value,” inclusions are what creates singularity in gemstones. While a VVS diamond is valued higher than a VS or SI, we believe the value lies in what makes a gemstone unique. Some really striking inclusions give diamonds and sapphires a distinctive character - it all depends on what you find attractive in these unique gemstones.
Inclusions are nature’s way of leaving behind a part of the growth process, and understanding them will help in the decision-making process, allowing you to sell to your clients with confidence. Certain diamonds require special care when setting and cleaning, and understanding what might impact a stone’s integrity will help when offering options for a specific piece or for a specific occasion. For example, a diamond with a large surface-reaching inclusion might not be best for a claw-set engagement ring, but better for a pendant or bezel set in a ring.
NATURE'S
FINGERPRINT
ARE
Inclusions
DANGEROUS?
If you’re wondering about a specific stone, reach out and ask us to check for surface-reaching feathers or other concerning inclusions. While naturals, cavities or feathers are common and rarely cause for concern (these stones have already held up under intense pressure and survived cutting!), we do our best to identify and note inclusions that reach a stone's surface in the product listing description. It is always a good idea to use general caution in the jewelry-making process, and avoid ultrasonic cleaning with highly included stones.
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