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US offices will be closed July 3rd

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scribble 1.webp__PID:f931d9f2-5834-4fc8-a7a6-f8523d5d1f0b

museum of 
misfit 
inclusions

rustic.webp__PID:f1e31153-8359-45a4-8e9a-1d310677788b

marquise brilliant cut diamond
with rustic inclusions

trapiche.webp__PID:f460b34d-6448-40f1-be9f-a4e7cdea5773

hexagonal shield portrait cut
diamond with trapiche pattern

wisp.webp__PID:159e9cf2-4c08-4224-ae48-19beaf3d7c6b

modern antique cushion brilliant
diamond with twinning wisps

WHY INCLUSIONS MATTER
NATURE'S FINGERPRINT
ARE INCLUSIONS DANGEROUS?

BEHOLD... INCLUSIONS!

the museum of misfit inclusions: a glossary of the weird and wonderful

In case you haven't noticed: we're big fans of inclusions. Every gemstone is beautiful in its own way, but it's what's inside that counts. Inclusions are what truly make each gemstone one-of-a-kind, sometimes even influencing a gemstone's color, giving clues to a stone's origin or revealing treatment, and can even be the cause of certain optical phenomena.

Below is a gallery of the many inclusions you might see in diamonds and sapphires.

rustic.webp__PID:d8212247-f174-4b7f-a511-b9c074f3ed43
trapiche.webp__PID:359876a7-163e-47fc-97d0-811bab12edcd
wisp.webp__PID:5a4a0bbf-4626-4791-9855-1405013b10df
rustic.webp__PID:d8212247-f174-4b7f-a511-b9c074f3ed43
rustic.webp__PID:d8212247-f174-4b7f-a511-b9c074f3ed43
rustic.webp__PID:d8212247-f174-4b7f-a511-b9c074f3ed43

Diamonds

FULL GLOSSARY
salt + pepper
pepper.webp__PID:a1be0d4e-15be-4575-a276-f511d2749b76

Perhaps the most well-known of the imperfect Misfit Diamonds, “Salt & Pepper” refers to diamonds with many inclusions, such as feathers, clouds, or other minerals, with a black and white (or colorless) appearance like salt and pepper.

pepper.webp__PID:a1be0d4e-15be-4575-a276-f511d2749b76
rust/iron
rustic.webp__PID:cecfc39f-66f2-4cf0-b475-ca67d6ff6c11

“Rust” or “Rustic” are terms used to describe a diamond with rust-colored inclusions, typically caused by the presence of iron.

rustic.webp__PID:cecfc39f-66f2-4cf0-b475-ca67d6ff6c11
trapiche
trapiche.webp__PID:c719c166-91f2-4bf6-921a-6cc80b7e9eb3

A star-like pattern that occurs in diamonds when dark inclusions (usually hydrogen clouds) align with the crystal axis; most well-know for occurring in emeralds, trapiche patterns in diamonds are quite rare.

trapiche.webp__PID:c719c166-91f2-4bf6-921a-6cc80b7e9eb3
trigon
trigon.webp__PID:6cc08384-38ce-4444-bf8f-e497c85e0c0c

An indented triangle that appears naturally on the surface of a diamond crystal during the growth process; trigons can appear solitary or in groups, sometimes stacking within larger trigons.

trigon.webp__PID:6cc08384-38ce-4444-bf8f-e497c85e0c0c
“carbon spot”
Carbon Spot 26297-03 1.26ct 7.38x5.74x4.31mm Oval Brilliant 1 copy.webp__PID:7510ffea-da53-4f3a-a7b1-ce06a5383534

Black inclusions that appear in diamonds are often referred to as “carbon spots”; however, they are rarely carbon, but other black minerals usually pertaining to the amphibole or pyroxene groups (which are really just fancy words for other rocks).

Carbon Spot 26297-03 1.26ct 7.38x5.74x4.31mm Oval Brilliant 1 copy.webp__PID:7510ffea-da53-4f3a-a7b1-ce06a5383534
rust/iron
25822-161.94ct10.23x6.05x3.92mmMarquiseDoubleCut4 copy.webp__PID:7175a384-c245-4d3d-9bd4-4f70bcba4fcc

“Rust” or “Rustic” are terms used to describe a diamond with rust-colored inclusions, typically caused by the presence of iron.

rustic.webp__PID:cecfc39f-66f2-4cf0-b475-ca67d6ff6c11
salt + pepper
pepper.webp__PID:a1be0d4e-15be-4575-a276-f511d2749b76

A term used to describe diamonds with many inclusions, such as feathers, clouds, or other minerals, with a black and white (or colorless) appearance like salt and pepper. These diamonds are sometimes referred to as ‘Galaxy,’ ‘Celestial,’ or ‘Grey’ diamonds, but we exclusively use the term “Salt and Pepper.”

pepper.webp__PID:a1be0d4e-15be-4575-a276-f511d2749b76
trapiche
trapiche.webp__PID:c719c166-91f2-4bf6-921a-6cc80b7e9eb3

A star-like pattern that occurs in diamonds when dark inclusions (usually hydrogen clouds) align with the crystal axis; most well-know for occurring in emeralds, trapiche patterns in diamonds are quite rare.

trapiche.webp__PID:c719c166-91f2-4bf6-921a-6cc80b7e9eb3
trigon
trigon.webp__PID:6cc08384-38ce-4444-bf8f-e497c85e0c0c

An indented triangle that appears naturally on the surface of a diamond crystal during the growth process; trigons can appear solitary or in groups, sometimes stacking within larger trigons.

trigon.webp__PID:6cc08384-38ce-4444-bf8f-e497c85e0c0c
twinning wisp
wisp.webp__PID:3c91cecf-c39f-46f2-9cf0-3475ca67d6ff

A wispy line of microscopic inclusions, either pinpoints or clouds, inside a diamond caused by irregular crystal growth.

wisp.webp__PID:3c91cecf-c39f-46f2-9cf0-3475ca67d6ff
natural
2.92ct Hexagon Rosecut w: Trigon Natural Surface 1 copy.webp__PID:7e340c68-52e1-4b57-b3e0-2383ecbd5377

An area on the surface of a polished diamond that has intentionally been left unpolished in the cutting process, often to leave some unique feature that appeared on the rough crystal surface (such as a trigon), usually appearing near or on the girdle; an indented natural is a natural that extends inward, distinct from a chip.

2.92ct Hexagon Rosecut w: Trigon Natural Surface 1 copy.webp__PID:7e340c68-52e1-4b57-b3e0-2383ecbd5377
cavity
APC_4576 copy.webp__PID:6c8a4cc3-7bfd-42b4-9b99-5d7f004dd6db

An indented opening where a crystal broke away or a feather opened up, usually the result of polishing.

APC_4576 copy.webp__PID:6c8a4cc3-7bfd-42b4-9b99-5d7f004dd6db
cloud
wisp.webp__PID:3c91cecf-c39f-46f2-9cf0-3475ca67d6ff

A cluster of microscopic crystals or pinpoint inclusions can cause a hazy looking “cloud” inclusion.

Clouds.webp__PID:4254447a-8610-4d42-ab3d-a546eb3399c9
feather
Feather 27223-45 1.56ct 10.65x5.36x2.80mm Hexagon Rosecut 2 copy.webp__PID:bcad4025-ae13-4a36-98c0-098cd57e8dc5

A feather is an internal fracture in a diamond (or sapphire), often with a feathery appearance (hence the name); feathers can often cause a rainbow to appear inside a gemstone because of light travelling through trapped air and causing dispersion.

Feather 27223-45 1.56ct 10.65x5.36x2.80mm Hexagon Rosecut 2 copy.webp__PID:bcad4025-ae13-4a36-98c0-098cd57e8dc5
needle
APC_0633 copy.webp__PID:ba3aae6e-8128-451a-8df7-4e601bb9d35a

A needle-like mineral inclusion, often the mineral rutile (pictured).

APC_0633 copy.webp__PID:ba3aae6e-8128-451a-8df7-4e601bb9d35a
crystal
APC_1988 copy.webp__PID:a4d10d85-a03f-4e90-b491-cf53d64afa45

Inclusions in gemstones are often other gemstone crystals; for example, diamonds may have garnet, peridot or zircon crystals - or even other diamonds.

APC_1988 copy.webp__PID:a4d10d85-a03f-4e90-b491-cf53d64afa45
twinning wisp
23415-01 1.04ct 6.92x5.49x2.97mm SI2 H Modern Antique Old Mine Cut 2 copy.webp__PID:77f2963e-e45e-41b9-beb3-2418e1eb18b8

A wispy line of microscopic inclusions, either pinpoints or clouds, inside a diamond caused by irregular crystal growth.

23415-01 1.04ct 6.92x5.49x2.97mm SI2 H Modern Antique Old Mine Cut 2 copy.webp__PID:77f2963e-e45e-41b9-beb3-2418e1eb18b8
knot
APC_7307 copy.webp__PID:8b5eb17e-f2c4-4250-ae6a-6f9d0da4e7d1

A crystal inclusion that reaches the faceted surface of the diamond.

APC_7307 copy.webp__PID:8b5eb17e-f2c4-4250-ae6a-6f9d0da4e7d1
pinpoint
Pinpoint.webp__PID:447a8610-1d42-4b3d-a546-eb3399c92e40

A microscopic crystal inclusion that appears only as a pinpoint through a jeweler’s loupe.

Pinpoint.webp__PID:447a8610-1d42-4b3d-a546-eb3399c92e40
chip/abrasion
chip.webp__PID:60fcf6ef-d060-4ef6-8069-8553dc0d2396

Despite their hardness (diamonds = 10, sapphires = 9 on Moh’s scale of hardness), enough impact can cause a diamond to break. Terms like “chip,” “abrasion” or “fracture” imply damage to a stone, while indented naturals and cavities occur naturally.

chip.webp__PID:60fcf6ef-d060-4ef6-8069-8553dc0d2396
fancy color
0.32ct 5.48x3.95x2.17mm GIA Fancy Green Pear Brilliant 24131-01 1 copy.webp__PID:590b1b36-46e3-41d5-a002-c31455f9e20a

Not so much an inclusion, naturally occurring diamond colors are caused by the presence of specific elements, radiation or imperfections in the crystal structure.

0.32ct 5.48x3.95x2.17mm GIA Fancy Green Pear Brilliant 24131-01 1 copy.webp__PID:590b1b36-46e3-41d5-a002-c31455f9e20a
fancy white
Fancy White 27562-01 1.01ct 7.51x5.17x3.66mm Pear Brilliant 2 copy.webp__PID:1830e3b4-d42c-4dc1-8f24-cac0837092b7

Fancy White color in diamonds is caused by a high concentration of microscopic cloud-like inclusions.

Fancy White 27562-01 1.01ct 7.51x5.17x3.66mm Pear Brilliant 2 copy.webp__PID:1830e3b4-d42c-4dc1-8f24-cac0837092b7
fancy grey
Fancy Grey 27544-15 1.31ct 7.80x4.55x3.34mm Cut Corner Rectangle Step Cut 2 copy.webp__PID:499f83f4-43e4-4438-acc3-f1398a7af089

Fancy Grey color in diamonds is caused by the presence of hydrogen (and sometimes boron).

Fancy Grey 27544-15 1.31ct 7.80x4.55x3.34mm Cut Corner Rectangle Step Cut 2 copy.webp__PID:499f83f4-43e4-4438-acc3-f1398a7af089
fancy black
Fancy Black 24530-01 1.74ct 8.93x6.06x4.76mm Pear Brilliant 1 copy.webp__PID:6c761f8b-8914-4626-a110-e3ccec35fd1c

Fancy Black color happens when a diamond has so many black inclusions causing it to be nearly or entirely opaque; black color is sometimes enhanced using irradiation. (Any treatments are disclosed in the product listing.)

Fancy Black 24530-01 1.74ct 8.93x6.06x4.76mm Pear Brilliant 1 copy.webp__PID:6c761f8b-8914-4626-a110-e3ccec35fd1c
Read more about color in diamonds (coming soon)View the full inclusion glossary

Sapphires

FULL GLOSSARY
rutile
rutile2.webp__PID:88f1b05f-9792-46db-b499-fc94bd0117f4

A mineral inclusion common in sapphires that forms as long needles; many parallel rutile needles have a "silk" appearance, often creating a sheen or opalescence, and the reason for asterism in sapphires.

rutile.webp__PID:d0708c4a-d262-4f90-8c89-a25f3e2a7a07
fingerprint
fingerprint.webp__PID:891ef41b-0f8d-4c47-b0ab-44e234f0c652

Occurs in sapphires when healing happens during formation, a liquid-like inclusion resembling a fingerprint.

fingerprint.webp__PID:891ef41b-0f8d-4c47-b0ab-44e234f0c652
zircon halo
halo.webp__PID:0a746b34-552b-49e8-b6f6-907a6660589c

In heated sapphires, a zircon halo occurs when a zircon crystal inclusion bursts during the heating process, resembling a small, clear disc-like inclusion.

_60A0708.jpg__PID:f6c913ed-4458-48c9-964c-0d0a7d1d77ea
crystal
crystal.webp__PID:897d9262-b58b-44b1-ada3-e4cd61ace6ca

Inclusions in gemstones are often other gemstone crystal, such as: hematite, calcite, mica, spinel or zircon.

crystal.webp__PID:897d9262-b58b-44b1-ada3-e4cd61ace6ca
feather
feather.webp__PID:7c199daf-b0e8-4e39-8f85-b1051e8c4ade

An internal fracture inside a gemstone, often with a feathery appearance (hence the name).

feather.webp__PID:7c199daf-b0e8-4e39-8f85-b1051e8c4ade
color zoning
zoning.webp__PID:67a1a504-d71c-4af1-9134-3a0bfcc03765

Areas of different color within a sapphire, often appearing along the hexagonal growth lines, or as distinct areas of color like in parti-color sapphires.

zoning.webp__PID:67a1a504-d71c-4af1-9134-3a0bfcc03765
parti-color
parti.webp__PID:115877a5-ca30-4fb5-9ca7-d1b6fc8f3d9d

Two or more distinct colors within the same stone; sometimes referred to as bi-color sapphires (when only two colors).

parti.webp__PID:115877a5-ca30-4fb5-9ca7-d1b6fc8f3d9d
growth lines
hex.webp__PID:a4e8439e-eb32-43b6-a069-38df8b6aebed

Because sapphire crystals form as hexagonal prisms, hexagonal growth lines will often appear within a stone, as color zoning or with rutile forming along the crystal axes.

hex.webp__PID:a4e8439e-eb32-43b6-a069-38df8b6aebed
opalescence
opalescence.webp__PID:cb720c48-e888-4a0b-af81-b485ac3533d9

Typically caused when microscopic rutile silk inclusions cause the light to scatter, giving some sapphires an appearance like an internal glow.

opalescence.webp__PID:cb720c48-e888-4a0b-af81-b485ac3533d9
asterism
asterism.webp__PID:5ff0bca5-26fc-4c35-93e6-ef2ea8fb86a1

The optical phenomenon found in star sapphires, occurring when dense rutile inclusions cause the light to reflect a six-star pattern.

asterism.webp__PID:5ff0bca5-26fc-4c35-93e6-ef2ea8fb86a1
View the full inclusion glossary
sparkles.webp__PID:f06a9436-587d-42d8-9c14-44d9f970504b

Why
Inclusions
Matter

Inclusions are important in diamonds and sapphires for multiple reasons. On top of being one of the determining factors in a gemstone’s “value,” inclusions are what creates singularity in gemstones. While a VVS diamond is valued higher than a VS or SI, we believe the value lies in what makes a gemstone unique. Some really striking inclusions give diamonds and sapphires a distinctive character - it all depends on what you find attractive in these unique gemstones.

sparkles.webp__PID:f06a9436-587d-42d8-9c14-44d9f970504b

Inclusions are nature’s way of leaving behind a part of the growth process, and understanding them will help in the decision-making process, allowing you to sell to your clients with confidence. Certain diamonds require special care when setting and cleaning, and understanding what might impact a stone’s integrity will help when offering options for a specific piece or for a specific occasion. For example, a diamond with a large surface-reaching inclusion might not be best for a claw-set engagement ring, but better for a pendant or bezel set in a ring.

NATURE'S
FINGERPRINT

sparkles.webp__PID:f06a9436-587d-42d8-9c14-44d9f970504b

ARE
Inclusions
DANGEROUS?

If you’re wondering about a specific stone, reach out and ask us to check for surface-reaching feathers or other concerning inclusions. While naturals, cavities or feathers are common and rarely cause for concern (these stones have already held up under intense pressure and survived cutting!), we do our best to identify and note inclusions that reach a stone's surface in the product listing description. It is always a good idea to use general caution in the jewelry-making process, and avoid ultrasonic cleaning with highly included stones.

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SHOP SAPPHIRES
SHOP FINISHED JEWELRY
sparkles.webp__PID:f06a9436-587d-42d8-9c14-44d9f970504b
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